From the Nkuba washing station — "lightning" in Kirundi — where 289 smallholder farmers grow bourbon-variety coffee on a hill locals say was blessed by the sky. This is a natural for people who don't usually like naturals: restrained rather than boozy, with sweet cacao at the center, melon and a whisper of green tea for complexity, and a smooth, creamy, clean finish. East African naturals outside Ethiopia are still rare. This one shows why they're worth seeking out.